After MFW SS26: What Worked, What Didn’t, and Why

SS26 marked my second season shooting runways and backstage during Milan Fashion Week. The schedule was packed, and so was mine. I covered 15 shows in total, thanks to HYGY Magazine for bringing me along this season. But looking back now, I have to ask myself: was it all worth it? The constant running between venues, the long days, and the even longer nights of post-production? Honestly, not every show was worth the time nor the effort.

SS26 felt very much like a quantity-over-quality season for me. By the end of it, I found myself reflecting deeply on why I shoot fashion week content in the first place. Some shows were genuinely exciting and thoughtfully executed. Others were so underwhelming that, being there looking at the collection and analyzing every piece of the garment, I caught myself thinking, “Clearly, somebody paid their way to be here.”

You can call that shady or bitchy if you want. I’m fully aware that funding plays a role and that brands need financial backing to exist within fashion week systems. But it’s hard to ignore the feeling that monetary contribution often outweighs creative vision when it comes to deciding who gets a slot. Some brands presented their collections in stunning, expensive venues: exclusive clubs, historic palazzos, beautifully staged spaces. Yet the garments themselves didn’t live up to the setting.

I asked a friend who attended one of the shows I found disappointing what she thought, and she told me the garments looked good. That conversation made something click for me: fashion consumers today aren’t always educated on garment quality, construction, or materials. And honestly, I don’t blame them. When almost everything is wrapped in beautiful venues, dramatic lighting, and the fact that it’s Milan Fashion Week, it’s easy to mistake presentation for substance.

Some brands this season felt like plastic ornaments dressed in golden packaging and tied with a pretty bow. Being there, looking at the collection in person and really analyzing every piece of the garment, some issues became impossible to ignore. Unfinished raw edges that are obviously not intentional, poorly executed fabric prints on flimsy materials, and garment constructions that looked rushed to finish. These aren’t details most people notice from the runway or through Instagram photos, but once you see them in person, you can’t unsee them. On top of that, some brands didn’t seem to have a clear direction or identity at all. No strong point of view, no consistent language, just clothes existing without a story or purpose I could grasp.

To be clear, this criticism isn’t aimed at emerging designers who are still early in their journey. Some designers delivered collections that felt thoughtful, well-constructed, and intentional. Which is exactly why I want to take this opportunity to highlight the brands that truly stood out to me during SS26:

1. Tokyo James

Tokyo James delivered sharp tailoring backed by serious craftsmanship. Add a strong lineup of models who served the looks with attitudes, this collection left an unforgettable impression. Read more

2. Alberto Zambelli

This collection was minimal, but never dull. Every look beautifully highlights the material, whether the silhouette was simple or more dramatic. Read more

3. Phan Dang Hoang

This SS26 collection combines Vietnamese landscapes and traditional craftsmanship into contemporary silhouettes, combining prints, weaving, and beadwork in a way that feels modern, and elevated. Read more

There are two other designers who deserve honorable mentions:

1. Simon Cracker

Simon Cracker is a brand that consistently works with upcycling, and you can feel that it’s embedded in their DNA. The brand feels playful, inclusive, and it’s kind of giving IYKYK vibe. Their casting always reflects the community they’re speaking to, which makes the runway feel alive. Read more

2. Daniela Gregis

In my opinion, Daniela Gregis’s collection leans more experimental. The show felt carefully and poetically constructed, from the invitation to the stage design. Read more

Welp, that’s a wrap for SS26 and I am looking forward to more exciting collections in FW26. Ciao for now 👋